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-
- Modifying the Storno 634 for FM and packet operation
- ====================================================
-
- Part 1 of 3
-
- INTRODUCTION
- ~~~~~~~~~~~~
- Modifying the Storno to amateur use is more of a "problem than a puzzle".
- I believe that there is no one exact method of converting a Storno.
- This series of mods were derived by myself and Peter, G3YYN.
-
- SYSTEM CONSIDERATIONS
- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
- The 634 in particular was designed for narrow band duplex low deviation
- mobile use only.
-
- 1) The Storno can be run from 6 volts to 24 volts N.B. The converter
- efficiency is diabolical as it draws in excess of 4 amps to deliver 10
- watts output. If you have a 24 volt power supply it only draws 1.25 amps.
- 2) The mic. input on j2 pin 2 is for the standard Storno power mic. This has
- minus 24 volts on it.
- 3) The PTT line has minus 24 volts on it.
-
- THE MODS
- ~~~~~~~~
- 1) Remove the screws holding on the case.
- 2) Remove grey outer case.
- 3) Locate PA PCB, top side front near control panel. On the right hand side
- of this board you will find three terminal pins, two of which are in use.
- The centre one has a coax braid attached. The one nearest the front panel
- has the inner of the coax fitted. Move THIS connection to the outermost
- pin. This connects the dummy load to the output of the exciter PCB.
- 4) Now comes the first hesitant step.....does the power supply work? Connect
- the unit to a 12 volt power supply, switch it on. It SHOULD draw about 200
- milliamps on receive.
- 5) Turn the rig over to the underside. On the crystal oscillator board you
- should be able to find minus 24 volts on all the oscillator sections
- (marked RX1 to RX6).
- 6) Now its time to see if it will switch over into transmit. Press the button
- on the front panel marked with a flash symbol. Check for minus 24 volts on
- the TX oscillator pins (marked TX1 to TX6).
- 7) You can now depress the button marked SQ and the squelch should break. The
- characteristic FM noise should be heard on the speaker. The volume control
- should affect its level.
-
- Should points 1-7 above prove successful, I hope you've ordered your rocks! I
- bought my rocks from:
- IQD Limited, North Street, Crewkerne, Somerset. TA18 7AR
- TEL NO. SALES: 0460 74433 OTHER: 0460 77155 FAX: 0460 77155
- The cost was 3.75 each plus VAT (over two units of each type ordered).
- TX frequency 11.74791 S22687AC HC25U 30pF loading.
- TX frequency 40.59375 S22687BC HC25U series loading.
-
- I shall now approach the set up in two distinct phases: setting up TX and
- setting up RX.
-
- SETTING UP TX
- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
- 1) Put TX rock into its can.
- 2) Turn chassis over to reveal its top side. The exciter card is the second
- PCB back from the front panel next to the changeover relay. At this point
- you MUST have an overlay drawing for this PCB. *** N.B. DO NOT TWEAK IFT's
- 3,4,5, AND 9......THESE WILL ADVERSELY AFFECT YOUR MODULATION ***
- The following settings were taken from the my packet group's batch ONLY.
- N.B. These will not work on a rig from another source! These settings will
- get you into the ball park, but will not guarantee function. You now have
- 10 adjustments to make:
- L1 2 turns clockwise
- L2 2 "" ""
- L10 1.5 "" ""
- L11 1.5 "" ""
- L12 1.5 "" ""
- L14 2 "" ""
- L15 1 "" ""
- L16 1.5 "" ""
- L17 2.5 "" ""
- Capacitor on the TX Can requires about 3 full turns clockwise.
- 3) Reverse the wire change made in THE MODS point 3. I.E. Reconnect exciter
- card to the PCB board.
- 4) Now connect power meter and dummy load to the aerial socket.
- 5) Press the TX button on front panel. Power should now show on meter.
- WARNING! THIS UNIT IS NOT DESIGNED TO DELIVER MORE THAN 10 WATTS. DO NOT
- TWEAK FOR MORE. THE FINAL PA TRANSISTOR CAN BE DESTROYED!
- 6) You can now adjust the capacitors and inductors in the PA PCB to give
- maximum output. If you cannot achieve at least 8 watts out, you will have
- to use a diode probe or suitable volt meter on the exciter card to re-peak
- the various doubler and tripler coil combinations.
- 7) If all has gone well, your rig should be developing some power. If you
- have a DC ammeter, now is the time to connect it to the 12 volt feed to
- the Storno. The unit draws about 4 amps. If it is drawing more, you can
- now adjust L16 and L17 on the exciter card for minimum current consumption.
- This equates to minimum harmonics generated in the system! Neat eh? You
- don't need a Spectrum Analyser!
- 8) To enable the TNC to key up the transmitter, I made a simple addition. Run
- a single wire from power supply point E forwards through the power supply
- assembly to the underneath of the chassis and feed it through the grommets
- to the control panel area. Feed it over to the J1 and J2 input connectors.
- Carefully remove the link PCB above the J1 and J2 connectors. This will
- reveal the back of the J2 connector. Remove the yellow wire on pin 3 of
- J2. This is the minus 24 volts for TX. This wire goes to an uncommitted,
- normally open relay contact. Connect the other side of the relay contact
- to terminal F of the link board assembly. The 12 volt input wire fed from
- the PSU can now be connected to the coil of the relay. The other side of
- the coil MUST be connected back to pin 3 of J2.This will enable the TNC to
- key up the transmitter without damage.
- 9) If you have a sub audible tone fitted (which is on the underside of the
- chassis adjacent to the power supply) there is a small white plug attached
- to this board leading from the control panel board. Remove this plug now.
- 10)Changing from pure phase to FM on the AA608 assembly. This is situated
- behind the oscillator section. The link on this board is currently set
- between the centre pin and the right hand pin (viewed from the front).
- This should be changed to the left hand and centre pins instead.
- 11)Setting the deviation. On the AA608 board there are three skeleton presets
- to set up the deviation. R29 (the far right preset adjacent to the TX and
- RX Cans) should be rotated to the 10 o'clock position. I.E. almost full
- scale. This should allow the TX section to work. You may have to change
- the deviation to suit your locally based stations. Low deviation seems to
- be the order of the day in many areas.
-
- SETTING UP RX
- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
- 1) Put RX rock into its can.
- 2) There are two variables on this can. It is a parallel resonant assembly.
- First, turn the inductor with a blue core 1.5 turns clockwise. Rotate the
- capacitor with a black plastic nut 1.5 turns clockwise. (This should set
- the RX oscillator going).
- 3) Turn chassis over to reveal top side. Receiver I.F. card is located behind
- the previously adjusted TX exciter card. Once again, the adjustments
- listed below only apply to units purchased by our packet group:
- C2 8 full turns clockwise
- C3 6 "" "" "" ""
- These two components will have the most effect on your receiver
- sensitivity.
- L9 2.5 turns clockwise
- L10 2.5 "" "" ""
- L11 3.5 "" "" ""
- L12 2.5 "" "" ""
- The following coils will have the greatest effect on receiver performance.
- If you are in the habit of tweaking one coil at a time to see what
- difference it makes, you will find that this series of coils will have to
- be done in one go.
- L7 3.5 turns clockwise
- L6 3 "" "" ""
- L5 3 "" "" ""
- L4 3.5 "" "" ""
- 4) You should now be able to receive packet transmissions! You will probably
- be unable to decode them! This is due to the second I.F. filter being
- VERY narrow in the order of 3KHz wide. We have devised two solutions to
- this problem.
- A) The G1ERT Bodge-Mod:
- This involves getting a 455khz ceramic filter (at least 6KHz wide) from a
- C.B. etc. and connecting it between the converter unit and the filter. You
- have to leave the current filter in line as it forms a load for the
- converter module. Without this, you will lose at least 30dB conversion
- gain (it'll be as deaf as a post). Remove the coax joining the output of
- the filter to the discriminator board located at the rear of the underside
- on the left hand side. Terminate the now uncommitted output of the filter
- with a 1.2K resistor. Connect the output of the C.B. filter (fitted above)
- to the input of the discriminator board. This mod IS brutal as it makes no
- allowances for ripple in the pass band of the filter. BUT it works AND its
- cheap!
- B) G3YYN preferred-mod:
- (not for the faint hearted, or for those without spectrum analysers!)
- I shall outline this mod briefly due to the equipment required. You MUST
- have access to the Storno manual sheet referring to the band pass filters
- BP608 to BP6012 inclusive. Most of the units we have are fitted with the
- VERY narrow BP6012 units. You can change the capacitors fitted inside this
- unit to those in the BP609 unit by removing the lid, cutting out C9 to C15
- inclusive and replacing them with the values used in the BP609 unit C9 to
- C15. The filter modified in this way will now require realigning for
- symmetry and flatness of response. This mod works very well and adds to
- the receiver performance. Maybe you are able to locate a source of wider
- filters?
- 5) Setting the AF and squelch board SQ602 to FM mode.
- On the top side of the chassis, the rear most board is the AF and squelch
- board. A 0.33mF capacitor is located to the right of the large skeleton
- preset capacitor, (located on the far left of the board when viewed from
- the front). To remove this capacitor, unsolder the link wire from the
- feed-through in the top left hand corner of the chassis. Loosen the three
- screws holding down this board. You should then be able to swing out this
- board and expose its underneath to enable the desoldering of the capacitor.
- Replace this capacitor with a 390R resistor. Replace the board, retighten
- the screws and solder on the wire link.
- 6) If required, the minus 24 volt DC level can be removed from J2 pin 2 by
- removing a resistor on the control panel assembly. This resistor
- (designated R3) is located on the underneath of the control panel. The
- minus 25 volt end is connected to the sixth terminal from the right hand
- side. This terminal has two blue wires twisted together and attached to it.
- You can now locate and remove this resistor. Alternatively, disconnect the
- two blue wires from the terminal, leave them connected together, putting
- insulating tape around them.
-
- This concludes the modifications.
-
- PLEASE NOTE
- ~~~~~~~~~~~
- Neither myself or Peter G3YYN can accept ANY responsibility for damage or
- loss caused by attempting these mods. They are intended for local use only
- and may serve to confuse others!
- I have modified six units using the methods described above, they all seem to
- work satisfactorily. Should you have any problems, or require aid or advice,
- please leave a message for me on GB7BIL.
- One last note of warning.......with the narrow deviation used locally, it is
- IMPERATIVE that your RX and TX frequencies are set up accurately. The receiver
- will almost certainly not work due to the high selectivity of the second I.F.
- filtering.
-
- End of part 3 of 3
-
- G1ERT @ GB7BIL
-
-